Ripon Cathedral | Historic Yorkshire Guide (2024)

Ripon Cathedral | Historic Yorkshire Guide (1)

Ripon Cathedral

A sudden introduction

I came around a corner in the road, not thinking of anything other than reaching my destination, miles to the north, in the Yorkshire Dales. Rising up ahead of me like an unexpected guest who jumps out from behind a door and shouts 'surprise!' was a gorgeous church, practically towering over me.

I craned my neck as I drove past, and caught a glimpse of a beautifully carved west front with statues decorating small niches above a wide door. My destination forgotten, I pulled into the nearest side street, grabbed my camera, and hurried back to explore this unknown treasure.

That was my first glimpse of Ripon Cathedral. I didn't even realise it was a cathedral, nor had I any notion of its historical significance, I just knew that it was an amazingly beautiful historic building and I was drawn to it like a honey bee to a flower.

Of course, as I explored the cathedral interior I learned not only where I was (always a good notion to figure out) but I also found out more about the history of this wonderful building.

After I returned home, my camera full to bursting with images, I began to read about the cathedral, its ancient foundation, and its architectural and historical importance, and it struck me that I was not alone in ignorance of Ripon Cathedral. It must be the least known and least appreciated of England's medieval cathedrals, but it is truly a national treasure, a wonderful building full of fascinating historical interest.

History

The foundation of Ripon Cathedral is a mix of myth and history, and it is sometimes hard to separate the two. A minster church was founded here by Celtic monks from Melrose Abbey around AD 660 AD on land granted by Alchfrith, a sub-king of Deira.

Alchfrith must have changed his mind about the style of worship he wanted to encourage, for he granted the monastery to St Wilfrid a short time later. The monks from Melrose packed up and left, leaving the field to Wilfrid.

Wilfrid formed a Benedictine monastery on the site and built a large stone church. He hired craftsmen from Europe to build the church, starting around AD 672. When Wilfrid died in AD 709 his body was brought to Ripon for burial. The crypt of Wilfrid's church still survives and can be visited; it is quite an experience, too.

The Saxon Crypt

Descending into the dim depths of the earth it feels like you are going back through time and will start to hear monks chanting at any moment. The crypt was built in imitation of Christ's tomb, and is very simple, with whitewashed walls with small niches for candles and a simple altar table.

The large niche on the east wall may have been made to hold the relics of saints brought back by Wilfrid from Rome. Now it houses a 14th-century alabaster carving depicting the resurrection of Christ.

The carving was part of a hidden stash found beneath the Dean's stall in the choir during Victorian restoration work. It was probably hidden to protect it from damage during the Reformation when many works of religious art were destroyed.

St Cuthbert served for a time as a guest master at Ripon and is said to have entertained an angel, not realising who his guest was.

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St Wilfrid's Crypt

In AD 875 the monastery was sacked by raiding Danes. It was rebuilt but again destroyed in AD 948. Sometime after AD 978, it was rebuilt once more, by Bishop Oswald, who intended it to serve secular priests. It had 6 prebends (attached to specific local churches) and was under the patronage of the Archbishop of York.

The monastery existed in one form or another until the Reformation when things get a little confusing. Since Ripon was serving as both a parish church and a monastic college, it lasted longer than most monastic houses, finally falling foul of Henry VIII in 1546 when the Dissolution of the Chantries was enacted. But because it was also a parish church it was not destroyed as other monasteries had been.

In 1604 James I re-founded Ripon. but it was dissolved under Cromwell's Commonwealth, only to re-founded again under Charles II in 1660. It served as a parish church until Ripon Diocese was formed in 1836 when the church was raised to the status of a cathedral.

The minster church was heavily restored when it was made a cathedral, so at Ripon you really have three churches in one; the ancient monastery of St Wilfrid, the Victorian improvements and restoration, and making up the bulk of the building, the medieval college.

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Medieval misericord of a mermaid

Interior Highlights

I've mentioned the Saxon crypt, but there are numerous other Saxon remains in the church, including a late 9th-century crosshead, an 8th-century grave marker, a 7th-century altar pillar and cross base in the crypt, late 8th-century string courses in a corner of the north transept, and a 7th century carved capital in the Chapel of the Resurrection.

The chapter house is probably 13th century, though it could perhaps be Norman. Most of the remainder of the church is in glorious early Gothic style from the period 1154-1255. There is an exquisite 14th-century sedilia, a 14th-century library above the chapter house, and a 15th-century pulpit. The library was originally a chapel but now houses the Cathedral's Treasury.

Among the Treasury items on display is The Ripon Jewel, a Saxon roundel discovered near the cathedral in 1976. This lovely circular ornament is made of gold inlaid with garnet and amber. Among the memorials inside the church is a table tomb to Sir Thomas Markenfield (d. 1398) with a beautifully carved effigy, somewhat marred by Reformation iconoclasts.

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The choir screen

The Choir Screen

However, the real treasure in my eyes is the choir screen, with eight carved and painted kings in canopied niches flanking a central doorway into the choir, with a further 24 statues in niches above the doorway arch.

The screen is a delight, beautifully carved and wonderfully ornate. Sir George Gilbert Scott, who undertook much of the Victorian restoration, thought the screen dated to around 1494, but there is a screen mentioned in a document from 1408 so either there was an earlier screen or Scott was out by at least a century!

The screen is fully 8 feet thick, with a door inside the passage to the rood loft, and another door down into the Saxon crypt. Unfortunately, though the screen is authentic medieval work, the statues are Victorian and represent kings, bishops, and saints who played a part in the history of the cathedral. Beyond the screen is the choir, famous for its medieval carved seats, or misericords.

One of these carvings shows a gryphon pursuing a rabbit, and is said to have inspired Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland story. Since Carroll's father was a canon at Ripon from 1852-1868 this story has at least the possibility of truth in it.

As you can tell, I loved Ripon Cathedral. It deserves more public notoriety, if that's the right word, as the wonderful historic building that it is.

Turner's View

After visiting the cathedral walk down Kirkgate towards the market square and look back at the view of the cathedral's west front framed by the shops on either side of the road. This is the same view sketched by artist JMW Turner on his tour of Yorkshire in 1797. It is wonderful to see how much of the view remains unchanged in the 2 centuries since Turner was here. Turner's original sketchbook is held at Tate Britain in London.

More Photos

Ripon Cathedral | Historic Yorkshire Guide (2024)

FAQs

Ripon Cathedral | Historic Yorkshire Guide? ›

In 1604 James I re-founded Ripon. but it was dissolved under Cromwell's Commonwealth, only to re-founded again under Charles II in 1660. It served as a parish church until Ripon Diocese was formed in 1836 when the church was raised to the status of a cathedral.

Why is Ripon Cathedral famous? ›

Ripon Cathedral is an important English church in New Yorkshire, once the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria. The church was founded by St. Wilfrid, a bishop and abbot who first founded a Benedictine monastery here, and then decided to introduce Roman-style stone church architecture to the region.

Is Ripon worth visiting? ›

This city's history is entwined with the church, both due to the cathedral in the city centre and its proximity to the nearby Fountains Abbey. Ripon also boasts an outstanding racecourse, a glorious stately home, a magnificent abbey and popular theme park. There are always great things to do.

Is Ripon Cathedral free to enter? ›

Visiting the cathedral is completely free of charge; however, donations are gratefully received as they help support the vital work we do in running and maintaining this magnificent building. The cathedral runs inexpensive guided tours and hosts many ticketed events such as fairs and concerts.

Is Ripon the oldest city in England or the UK? ›

Ripon is actually the oldest city in England. It is also the fourth smallest city in England. It has a population of about 17,000. Cities are deemed so in Britain if they have a Royal Charter, rather than based on their population as in many other countries.

Who is buried at Ripon Cathedral? ›

In Ripon, Saint Wilfrid built and completed from the foundations to the roof a church of dressed stone, supported by various columns and side-aisles to a great height and many windows, arched vaults and a winding cloister. Saint Wilfrid was buried in this church near the high altar.

What are some fun facts about Ripon? ›

Ripon is the 3rd smallest city in England, with a fabulous cathedral that punches well above its weight. Granted a charter by Alfred the Great in 886 AD a Wakeman blows a horn at each corner of the market square every night, signaling vigilance against enemies, a tradition unbroken for a millennium and more.

Is Downton Abbey in Ripon? ›

The most likely location for Downton is Eldmire, 5.6 miles from Thirsk and 9.2 miles from Ripon. Holme (6.7 and 8.9), Catton (5.7 and 8.4) and Dalton (5.1 and 9.2) are not quite as good a match. There are also possible locations in Sinderby.

Is Ripon the smallest city in England? ›

Ripon became well known for its production of spurs during the 16th and 17th centuries, but would later remain largely unaffected by the Industrial Revolution. Ripon is the third-smallest city in England and the smallest in Yorkshire, by population.

How long is the train journey from Ripon to London? ›

2 h 9 min

Does Ripon Cathedral have a toilet? ›

There are no cathedral toilets, there is no safe private rehearsal space for the choir and there is no gathering place for large groups to meet, eat and keep their belongings safe. The cathedral lacks facilities to prepare food and serve large groups.

How long is Ripon Cathedral? ›

The cathedral has stood for 1350+ years, symbolising the durability of the Christian Faith in the face of many changes across the centuries. Enjoy supporting the life, music and fabric of Ripon Cathedral and you will be playing a vital part in the preservation and development of this wonderful building.

How many bells does Ripon Cathedral have? ›

Ripon Cathedral has a wonderful peal of 12 bells, the 10 heaviest of which were cast in 1932 and were augmented in 2008. Since then, they have sounded out in celebration and sorrow for many significant national occasions, the most recent of these was the coronation of His Majesty King Charles III.

Does Ripon have a castle? ›

There are 16 Ripon castles and palaces to pick from. Find the perfect places to go with your kids and get out on your next adventure!

Has the Queen been to Ripon? ›

In 1985, she made an historic visit to Ripon - the first reigning monarch in more than 400 years to visit the city. Huge crowds awaited her outside Ripon Cathedral, where she distributed the Royal Maundy.

What day is Ripon Market? ›

Ripon market is held every Thursday from 7.30am until 3pm throughout the year, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day or New Year's Day. Ripon's Thursday market offers a range of essential goods such as fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, cheese, fresh eggs, homemade cakes and savoury bakes as well as locally reared meat.

Why is the cathedral Basilica famous? ›

The church is known for its large mosaic installation (which is one of the largest in the Western Hemisphere), and for its burial crypts.

What is the greatest cathedral building of the age? ›

St. Peter's Basilica is one of the most renowned works of Renaissance architecture and features many notable Baroque elements. It is often regarded as the greatest building of its age. The edifice—the church of the popes—is a major pilgrimage site.

What is the oldest cathedral in Central America? ›

The Cathedral of Santa María la Menor in the Colonial City of Santo Domingo is dedicated to St. Mary of the Incarnation. It is the first and oldest cathedral in the Americas, begun in 1504 and was completed in 1550.

What are the carvings in Ripon Cathedral? ›

The cathedral quire houses incredibly intricate wood carvings detailed upon individual bench stalls. One such seat, the mayor's stall, holds misericord that depicts a gryphon and a rabbit.

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